We all have a place we dream about. We have visited it without ever having set foot there. For me, that place was the Mountains of the Moon, the Rwenzoris, in western Uganda. I dreamed about it for years: the massive glaciers on the equator, the hypertrophic plants, the constant rain, and impenetrable mist. But it was only after I’d learned that global warming was radically altering these mountains that I bought a plane ticket I went there.